Seasoned To Taste
Shelley Levitt
A meal at the Four Seasons Hotel New York offers not just astonishing food, but a chance to quiz the celebrated chef
New to the Big Apple and don’t know where to begin your culinary adventures, much less what to do? Don’t fret. One of the greatest spectacles in New York these days is watching Xavier Boyer work his culinary magic at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, the signature restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel New York.
No one knows better than Will Estes, who recently transplanted from Los Angeles to New York to play rookie cop Jamie Reagan on CBS’ new crime drama Blue Bloods. His first week in town, he stopped by L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon to celebrate finding an apartment “in about 34 minutes,” a feat for any New Yorker, and his new life on the other coast.
SHOW AND TELL
From one of 20 counter seats arranged around a U-shaped bar that looks directly into the kitchen, diners have a front-row view of the Paris-trained chef as he creates dishes such as free-range quail stuffed with foie gras and truffle mashed potatoes. “It’s very exciting,” says Boyer. “All the boundaries are taken down and you can have a one-on-one interaction with your guests.” Boyer has become so close to some regular customers, they’ve gone out to dinner together on his nights off (at the acclaimed Le Bernardin, just a few blocks from the hotel).
After stints at L’Atelier establishments in London and in Paris-the name means “workshop”-Boyer has become accustomed to cooking as a performance art and to answering patrons’ questions as he scoops caviar over a crisp poached egg. The most common inquiry: How do you know when fish is perfectly cooked? Boyer suggests gently poking the fish with a thin needle; if it meets with just a tiny bit of resistance, remove it from the heat to finish cooking in the pan. 
The mood here is informal, but the restaurant’s pedigree is unmatched. Joël Robuchon, who personally trained Boyer to run his New York kitchen, is the most decorated chef of the century; his 17 restaurants in such sites as Hong Kong, Las Vegas, London, Taipei, Tokyo, Monaco and Macao have earned an unprecedented 26 Michelin stars, making him as much of a celebrity as the Hollywood A-listers (Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez, Madonna, Sylvester Stallone) who stay at the hotel.
Q & A
Part of New York’s newest crime-fighting brood, Will Estes plays Harvard Law grad and freshly minted cop Jamie Reagan on CBS’ new drama Blue Bloods. When he’s not on the set learning the “family business,” he’s exploring the Big Apple and all its culinary offerings.
Which foods do you snack on during long days at the set?
Raw fruits and veggies. I avoid processed or fast foods whenever possible.
What do you like to cook at home?
I wouldn’t call myself a pro cook, but I love to whip up a good breakfast!
What is your best cooking tip?
Using fresh ingredients. I love adding fresh peppers from the garden to my eggs.
Red or white wine?
Red. I usually don’t dabble with the whites.
What would you choose for your last meal?
I grew up in Southern California, so something Mexican. When I was a kid, I was convinced I could live off rice,
beans and guacamole forever.
GOURMET TOUCHES
We asked Xavier Boyer for some easy tips on how home chefs can bring Robuchon flair to their own cooking:
* Add foie gras to your burgers. Sear the foie gras separately, then place on top of the cooked burger. “Keep the proportion of the foie gras to burger meat about 1:4, so it doesn’t become overpowering,” Boyer suggests.
* Serve homemade tomato confit with freshly cooked vegetables. Peel the tomatoes, seed and cut into quarters, then drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil, salt, pepper, fresh thyme, shaved garlic and a dash of sugar (to cut the acidity). Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and roast in a 200-degree oven for about five hours.
* Mince tarragon, parsley and chervil; combine with butter to make a paste and slip under the skin of a chicken before roasting.
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